Monday, March 26, 2007

Azerbaijani Food

Bread
Chorak

A variety of breads is prepared in Azerbaijan, ranging from the paper-thin sheets of "lavash" to the dark, round, whole-wheat Russian-style loaves - karpij chorak (brick bread), agh chorak (white bread) and gara chorak (black bread). You can also find damiryol chorayi (railroad bread) and bulka (a slightly sweet bread roll). Fresh bread is bought daily from the local bakery or at distribution points nearby.

The bread pictured here is called "tandir chorayi" (oven-bread). Bread is a "must" with every meal and serves as one of the main sources of carbohydrates in the Azerbaijani diet. Bread is usually sliced and set beside each individual plate. Generally, for guests, tandir chorayi is preferred.

During Soviet times, bread was made in state-owned factories. It was a substantial, round loaf weighing more than a pound. Since independence, more and more private bakeries have opened up. Loaves are becoming smaller now that people are more conscious of their weight. One popular type is a Turkish-style white bread (turk chorayi), similar to a French baguette.

Certain breads disappeared from Azerbaijan following the Soviet takeover in 1920, including sangak, which is a flatbread (usually about 20 x 40 inches long) made from whole wheat sourdough and baked in a tandir oven. (See photo essay, page 45, where the sangak is hung up on display.) Because sangak is made by hand, the Soviets opted for mass production of loaves, and sangak soon passed into oblivion. Fortunately, sangak is still widely available in Iran (South Azerbaijan).


Stuffed Eggplant
Badimjan Dolmasi


When someone mentions the word "dolma", stuffed grape leaves usually come to mind. But there are many other vegetables that Azerbaijanis stuff including eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage and quince. On rare occasions, you'll even find stuffed potatoes, onions and cucumbers.

Eggplant dolma is probably the most favorite, especially in the summer, when it is widely available. You'll find dolmas served at nearly every special occasion, often in a colorful trio combination: red tomatoes, green bell peppers and purple eggplant.

What's in the stuffing? Rice and herbs such as coriander, mint and dill are the fundamental ingredients. Often onions and minced meat-lamb, veal or beef-are added to the mixture. The dish is allowed to simmer for several hours in its own juices. Minced garlic and yogurt are served as accompaniments. In Southern Azerbaijan (in Iran), yellow split peas and spices like turmeric and pepper are often part of the mixture.


Stuffed Pepper
Bibar Dolmasi


As with eggplant, green bell peppers may be stuffed to form another type of "dolma". Bell pepper dolma is often served with other types of stuffed vegetables, including eggplant and tomatoes. The peppers are stuffed with the same ingredients as the eggplant: rice and herbs such as coriander, mint and dill. Often onions and minced meat - lamb, veal or beef - are added to the mixture. The dish is allowed to simmer for several hours in its own juices. Minced garlic and yogurt are served as accompaniments. In Southern Azerbaijan (in Iran), yellow split peas and spices like turmeric and pepper may also be added.


Kabab
Kabab


In ancient times, nomadic Turkic tribes who roamed the region of present-day Azerbaijan spent their evenings around fires barbecuing the catch of the day. Today in Azerbaijan, whether you're in a restaurant or at a wedding, you'll find that meat is still cooked basically the same way, as "kababs". No Azerbaijani restaurant would be without "LBT" kababs - meaning Lula (ground lamb), Balig (fish, referring to sturgeon) and Tika (lamb chops).

In the summertime, Azerbaijanis love to go out to their dachas and make kababs outdoors. Kabab is one food that men take responsibility for preparing. It's considered a man's job and women can finally take a rest!

To make kababs, cut large cubes of meat and thread them onto metal skewers. Then barbecue them over coals or fire. Once the kabab is well-done (but still tender), the meat is taken off the skewers and served with roasted tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. The meat is often sprinkled with finely chopped white onion and a sour burgundy-colored spice known as sumag. Fish kabab is served with concentrated pomegranate juice.

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