Monday, March 26, 2007

Andorran Food

Diane's Kaesewaehe (Swiss-style savory cheese tart)

Like its cousin the fruchtewähe, the käsewähe is often sold by the slice in Swiss bakeries as the main ingredient in a fast lunch. Käsewähen can include all kinds of savory ingredients, depending on what's in season. This one is an "all-season" recipe.

As regards the cheeses: Most wähen on their home ground would include a mixture of Emmental and Gruyere cheeses, about 60% Emmental to 40% Gruyere. But you can vary the mixture to your own preferences: some people prefer not to use the Gruyere at all, or to substitute a more assertive cheese like the "räss" version of Appenzeller. It's your call. (This would probably also work well if you added a smoked cheese.)

For the tart crust:

  • 6 ounces plain flour
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 3 ounces butter, well chilled
  • 1 pinch nutmeg
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten

For the filling:

  • 7 ounces medium sharp Swiss-type cheese(s)(Appenzeller, Gruyere, winzerkaese, Emmental)
  • 1/2 large onion
  • 2 ounces speck or other strongly smoked bacon
  • 1 clove garlic
  • Salt, pepper, paprika

For the custard:

  • 8 fluid oz heavy cream or milk and cream, mixed
  • 2 tablespoons cornflour / cornstarch
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • Pinch nutmeg to season

Equipment: one 10-inch tart tin, preferably metal, preferably the kind with the removable bottom

First: preheat the oven to 200c / 400f.

Then make the dough. Combine the flour and salt and cut in the butter until the mixture is the consistency of coarse cornmeal. Add the eggs, and mix until the dough gathers together. Try not to handle it more than you have to (don't overknead: if using a food processor, a few pulses worth about fifteen seconds total should be enough to make it all come together). Round into a ball and wrap in Saran wrap / clingfilm: allow to rest in the refrigerator or another cool place for 20 minutes.

Chop the bacon small and saute it in a frying pan until the fat runs. Add the onion, chopped; lower the heat and saute slowly until the onions start to become translucent. While this is going on, grate the cheese on the finest setting of the grater, or the smallest holes.

Roll out the tart dough to about 1/6 inch thick or so and line the tart pan with it. Prick the pastry all over with a fork. Finely chop up the garlic clove and add it to the sauteeing onions and bacon. Saute briefly, so as not to cause the garlic to burn or become acrid.

The onion-bacon mixture in the tart shellScatter the onion/bacon mixture evenly around the tart shell.

Beat together the cornstarch with about 3 tablespoonfuls of the milk and cream mixture to make a thick paste. Add the rest of the cream and beat briefly. Add the eggs and seasonings and beat again.

Scatter the grated cheese evenly over the onion and bacon mixture in the tart shell, and dust with paprika. Place the tart pan in the preheated oven and carefully pour the egg/milk mixture into it. Bake at 200c / 400f for 10 minutes: then lower the heat to 180c / 360f and bake for another 25 minutes, or until the pastry and filling are golden brown. Remove and cool on a rack. Serve warm or reheated.


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